Friday, July 9, 2010
Here's the pattern:
R= ring OR= onion ring Ch= chain ds= double stitch
d= 1st half of ds s= 2nd half of ds +=j= join clr= close ring fp= false picot
R1= 1ds, (2d,2s)6- (2d,2s)6, 1ds cl r
OR2= 1ds,(2d,2s)6- (2d,2s)6+ [ j to picot R1] (2d,2s)6- (2d,2s)6 clr
OR3= 1ds, (2d,2s)9+ [j to 1st picot OR2] (2d,2s)9- (2d,2s)9+ [j to 2nd picot OR2] (2d,2s)9, 1ds clr
OR4= fp,1ds, (2d,2s)12- (2d,2s)12+ [j to picot OR3] (2d,2s)12- (2d,2s)12, 1ds j to fp to close
OR5= 1ds, (-2d-2s)2, (2d,2s)15+ [j to 1st picot OR4] (2d,2s)40 +[j to 2nd picot OR4] (2d,2s)15, (-2d-2s)2, 1ds clr
take the thread through the nearest picot of OR5 and knot. Then begin the arms.
Ch1= (2d,2s)- (2d,2s)25- (2d,2s)25- (2d,2s)5
Ch2 = (2d,2s)5+ (2d,2s)25+ (2d,2s)25+ (2d,2s) +
Ch2 travels back up Ch1, joining to each corresponding picot of Ch1, then joining into the same picot of OR5. Once knotted, the thread is then taken through the next closest picot of OR5 and knotted before beginning the next arm. Repeat for all 8 arms.
Once OR2 was completed, I found it simpler to create the following ORs as though they were chains, rather than rings, as it made it much easier to fit the subsequent rings properly into the picots. I would make the chains up to each join, and, once joined, continue the chain until completed, and then tighten, joining to the base of OR1, or to the false picot created in OR4.
I created Ch2 in stages, pulling the chain section through the needle and joining into the appropriate picot, then continuing along the chain, tightening slightly as I went.
Knotting at the beginning of each arm helps to prevent stretching of the picots on OR5.
Please let me know if you have any questions regarding my pattern, or if you should find any errors. Thanks.
I am having problems with my connection due to the heavy rains, so I shall close, and share some garden pictures next time.
Thanks for visiting.
Hugs from Suz